Mountain biking is a dangerous sport if you, as a rider/student, do NOT listen to your body's signals, such as hunger, fatigue and irritations... Forgetting to ignore other thoughts that appear while riding... Failing to follow the instructor's instructions... And generally failing to use your common sense - failing to listen to your gut.

 

Accidents happen, unfortunately. Sooner or later we may crash and cause ourselves physical harm.

Should the accident happen, we are of course first aid trained and have the telephone number for

nearest emergency service. You should always use your common sense and absolutely do not do anything foolish!! Even if you currently think you can "walk on water". It's OK to challenge yourself, but do it sensibly and not foolishly

 

MTB is even more fun if you are good friends with both nature and the forest's other guests. But with more and more two-wheeled visitors to the forest, it becomes more and more difficult to ensure smiles and a well-preserved nature. The MTB sport is associated with a risk of injuries and crashes - that's just the way it is

 

 

Therefore, a common code of conduct for MTB riders has now been drawn up

Drive where you have to

• In nature, you may only cycle on roads and paths.

• Avoid riding on marked horse trails, hiking trails, etc. outside the forest roads.

• Do not drive on ancient monuments, burial mounds, dykes and stairs.

• Do not drive in private forests from sunset to 6 the next morning.

Drive responsible

• Adjust your speed and keep your distance - traffic laws also apply in nature.

• Cycle together - remember a helmet, phone, 112 app and health insurance card.

• Avoid the track in very wet periods, use only the robust tracks and forest roads.

show respect

• Drive at a leisurely pace when you meet other forest visitors. Use the bell in good time - or a verbal "ding-ding".

• Do not throw your waste in nature.

• Avoid places where there are many forest visitors and protect animals and plants.

 

Safety

Drive safely: 10 good advice

1. Always use safety equipment

   1. As a minimum, a bicycle helmet and gloves, but also preferably arm and leg protectors and glasses as protection against branches.

2. Always adjust your speed to the conditions

   1. both for your own safety and that of others.

3. Keep distance

   1. A good rule of thumb is to keep a distance of at least five bicycle lengths from the MTB in front. Not least when the track is singletrack.

4. Cycle with others

   1. Remember to have photo ID or the yellow health card on you

   2. If the accident is over and you e.g. is unconscious or dazed, it is a great help to those who have to help you - not least in the hospital.

5. Know your equipment, your abilities and the area in which you will be driving

   1. Plan the trip based on that. Remember to also take wind and weather into account.

6. Get off along the way and check the route

   1. Only tackle steep descents and other technically demanding challenges if you are sure you can handle them. Look at them first.

7. Stay focused all the time

   1. A moment of inattention can put yourself and others in danger.

 

1. Be visible

   1. Remember to have lights on the bike or a headlamp when riding at dusk or when it is dark.

2. Always keep your MTB equipment in good condition.

 

Other recommendations

• Falck also recommends that you have the following in your MTB rucksack: A small set of tools (multi tool), new hose, pump, mobile phone, heating blanket made of foil, energy bar or packed lunch and plenty of drinks.

 

3 tips on basic position:

1. The weight in the pedals

2. Lightly bend at the elbows and knees

3. Heels down, knees out

 

There is a risk of you crashing on a mountain bike when you are out in the woods. The risk can be reduced, but it cannot be eliminated. Therefore, it is a really good idea to keep track of the things that can help you if an accident happens.

• Adjust your helmet

• Do not drive alone

• Remember the phone

 

Three good tips on how, with a little more consideration, you can have a much safer trip in the forest.

1. Check the trail - preferably on foot

2. Are you tired? Drive more safely

3. Again and again - drive the difficult pieces

 

Challenges must match your driving technique

 

The risk of injuries must not make people give up mountain biking, believes the senior doctor. Because it's healthy to move. So it's about reducing the risk. Accidents happen in a combination of the skills of the athlete and the framework of the sport. The driver's technique must match the challenges, so it is good to take a driving technique course. The rider must also be able to assess his own skills and speak up if the group is heading out on a track that you cannot master,

 

 

Your mountain bike equipment must be in order.

 

In the same way, the bike must be in good condition, so that, for example, the chain does not come off and get stuck between the cogs and frame when you change gears quickly to ride up a hill. And then you have to wear equipment that can reduce or prevent the damage if things go wrong. You must always wear a helmet, and it is a good idea to have a back shield and protectors for knees and elbows if you ride on tracks other than ordinary forest paths. But a back shield cannot prevent serious back injuries, so it must not make you think that you can then throw yourself into something you do not master.

 

3 MTB tips: Safe and sound on the descent

Sharp descents can be both fun and terrifying. If the descent is steep and/or technically difficult, it can be just as much of a challenge as the ascent.

• The weight down in the feet

• Look ahead, plan line

• Speed is your friend

•  

Equipment

Helmet

 

The helmet must fit well. It can happen that it gets stuck in branches, and if it is too loose it can do more harm than good.

 

Glasses

Goggles must protect the eyes from branches, insects and what the wheels throw off. It's smart to get two pairs of glasses - a dark pair for sunny days, and a clear pair for gray days. Both models can be obtained for under DKK 100 in hardware stores.

 

Cycling shoes

Cycling shoes are not necessary, but they are super-practical. It takes some getting used to, but after a few trips they can also improve your technique and intensity.

 

Cycling clothing

You can really cycle in everything from swimming trunks to a boiler suit, but there ARE several advantages to buying special clothes for the cycle trips. Avoid the pants catching on the pedals, chain or bottom bracket by choosing a pair of tight, elastic pants/shorts. Cycling trousers have an extra pad down towards the saddle, so you also avoid wear marks. A cycling jersey or jacket provides you with a back pocket and is available in strong colors so that you can be seen in traffic. If necessary, add gloves, loose sleeves, etc. Look for clothes that are made of a material that can transport sweat away from the skin.

Tools and spare parts

The most necessary are an extra hose, a tire iron and a pump.

You can get a bicycle multi-tool with a chain separator and a spare chain link that matches your chain/rear sprocket. A few plastic strips can be good. Sports tape can also act as a first aid kit for your bike. Alternatively, you can take some duct tape with you. Collect a small package which can be placed in the back pockets or in a bag under the saddle.

Remember to learn how to use the tool before you leave.

 

The handlebar height on the MTB

 

The height of the handlebars is measured in relation to the saddle. When the saddle and handlebars are at the same height, we call it a neutral position.

 

• A lower setting of your MTB handlebars makes the riding position more aggressive and aerodynamic.

• A higher setting of the handlebars makes the driving position more comfortable. The MTB rider gets better steering properties and greater flexibility.

Most people go for a position of the MTB handlebar slightly lower than neutral. The height is changed by the crown tube or by the angle of the stem.

Stem on MTB

The distance between saddle and handlebar says something about your riding style on MTB. There must be room for steering and knees when you stand up and step uphill. At the same time, you have to be so close to the handlebars that with outstretched arms you can get the seagull behind the saddle on downhills and drops.

 

The stem length must match a neutral sitting position

MTB saddle height

 

When you sit on your saddle, put your heel on the pedal and press it down. If the leg is stretched, you will have problems with balance and risk pain in the hips and buttocks. If the leg is too bent, it will go beyond the knee, and you will not be able to transfer power to the bike to the same extent.

In between is a magical area where you can actually sit comfortably on the bike. With a slight angle of the bike, you can also reach the ground with the tips of your toes when standing still.

That way you can let the others come up again after you have put them on the tray. This is your neutral zone.

 

 

Figure out your saddle

If you are the slightly geeky type, there is a formula when you need to adjust your MTB saddle:

• Measure your crotch height. This is most easily done by placing a book as high as possible between the thighs and then measuring from the floor to the upper edge.

• Then you multiply the number by 0.883.

• The result should be a good starting point for the distance between the center of the crank (where the pedal arm is mounted) and the top of the saddle, measured along the frame tube. This applies to most people, so it may be worth a try.

• Measure your saddle with your thigh

  • An easier method is to stand next to your bike and raise your thigh up to horizontal. The height of the saddle must then be just below thigh height

Got better at reading the track

Looking ahead and scanning the track is a skill that can be trained like anything else. You can drive at the pace your eyes are able to find the track. In relation to being able to scan the surroundings, it is also essential to train your driving skills. Especially in terms of relaxing and springing in the arms and legs. For one thing, the strain is less if the head is kept as still as possible, but at the same time it is easier to see ahead when the eyes are not shaken by the movements of the bicycle. Your wheels don't need many centimeters, your handlebars need quite a bit more, but often your fear needs a lot more space. Especially if the speed is at the edge of your abilities. The reason is that you are all too often aware of all the obstacles and tasks that can cause problems for you. Everything that can go wrong.

It concerns all the "magnetic" objects such as stones, roots, tree stumps, holes, drops, steps, mud and sand. They put themselves in focus and attract your attention.

 

It is a natural reaction.

 

Your eyes choose your path, as you often end up where your eyes rest. Therefore, it is important to spot the track you want to drive. And stay on track! Training makes you smarter about the elements and possibilities of the track. This experience makes you better able to see the possibilities in the character of the track.

 

 

How to train route scanning:

1. The most common habit you have to fight is that you look too short. Having another rider right in front of you will help you look ahead.

2. If you struggle with a habit of not moving your eyes enough, you can focus on the task of describing the track. This means that you speak out loud inside your head and name all the passages. Mud puddle, drop, turn, mess, flat, turn. It will become a habit to search for the next title and it will help you move your eyes.

3. One strategy for the impatient is to drive fast and thus force the system to react. It works fine for some, but the exact opposite for others.

4. Go the distance on foot. Get to know all the details and construct a mental map and the best path through the play. Run the play while concentrating on this particular plan. You can possibly remember phrases that describe the tasks. Right on mud, front wheel down over drop and so on. The more times you then run the play, the stronger the ability to react automatically in similar situations becomes.

Balance

It takes practice to keep your balance on two wheels downhill and in hilly terrain. A good balance is essential in hilly terrain - not least off trail. When you need to check your balance, start with your hands.

 

Gear or balance

Balance is important on a mountain bike. When we reluctantly have to go to the ground, it is usually due to a wrong gear or a lack of balance. When you go down because the guy in front goes down, it's also a question of gear balance - otherwise you could go around or jump over.

 

Good balance makes you safe

Imagine you are going up a hill and you overtake him in front just as he is about to stall. Only now do you see that it would have been an advantage to sit on the track next to his. Ok, you keep your balance and see that no one is coming from behind, do a double weight shift, and tilt the front and rear wheels to the side, end up in an open track and elegantly slide on.

 

 

The inner water pass

The balance is linked to the internal spirit level you have sitting inside your ears. It detects whether you are facing straight up and down. When the going gets tough, a signal is sent on to the central, which again asks the motor system to correct, after which the muscles must be tightened just right, and then we are back at the start. Sight is also part of your balance. By turning the surroundings into a horizon, they can form a visual water level. If the terrain is hilly, we just remember what the landscape looked like a fraction of a second ago.

 

Be careful about speeding up

When you ride an MTB, you give the balance center the responsibility for both you and the bike - and you send it out into uneven terrain and maybe even speed up. The problem is that your body finds it difficult to register the signals and correct them in time. This is how you will also experience it the first time you get down on a recumbent bike. A little panic at first, then you compensate, and then you get better with time. Because we learn what we need, and if we are aware of things, we learn it faster.

 

The body receives several signals

When we place an iron horse under us, the body sends several signals that must be included in the equation. Your position on the bike will be felt in the arms and hands, legs and feet, shoulders and rear.

 

Check your balance with your hands

The best way to check your balance is with your hands:

• Can you feel pressure on your palms, or do you have to hold on and feel a pull?

• Is it the same for both sides or are you offset to the side relative to the neutral position?

The same applies to feet, balls and shoulders. The angle in the hips, knees, elbows and shoulders is also registered, but it is difficult to keep track of. You can learn to register all these signals, and if you practice a little on one part at a time, it will also become automated more quickly. Start with your hands and feet, as they are your primary contacts with the bike.

Put down - pick up

Place your water bottle on the ground and pick it up again while cycling. It doesn't get any simpler, but that doesn't change the fact that the exercise is really good. You can make the exercise more difficult by using a cycling glove instead of a water bottle.

 

Practice balance in square

Use cones, stones or small tree stumps to make a square and drive with the front wheel on the outside and the rear wheel on the inside of the square. You can make the exercise easier and harder by changing the size of the square. Focus on where your eyes are directed

Practice balance in figure eights

It is difficult to control the mountain bike when you are driving very slowly. Get better at maneuvering by doing something as simple as driving in figure eights between two markings

Play with obstacles

Think about your body instead of the bike, that's the main message when you have to learn to pass obstacles in the forest. Lay out a raft or large branch in an open area and practice getting over it in different ways.

Get the best swing technique

 

You can ride much faster and safer through the turns on your MTB if you use the right technique. It may sound simple to turn the MTB through a bend, but clear traces in nature show that far from everyone does it according to the regulations.

"A lot of people drive too much in the middle of the road, so the turning curve becomes too sharp, and you lose an enormous amount of speed. You can see it on the tracks in the paths that people do not use the width of the bend well enough. It is quite revealing

Speed, gear and curves

First of all you have to have the right speed and be in the right gear and most importantly you choose the right line

 

Pressure and position

Making the correct turn is much more than turning the handlebars on the bike – the whole body must be used

• Turning technique on a narrow singletrack, where you have to be able to move the bike under you without losing balance control in the upper body.

 

• A turn at high speed on a forest road, where it is important to keep the grip of the wheel on the ground, and the bike therefore does not have to go too far into the turn.

 

• You practice braking technique on descents by going through the hill first. Put branches in the ground along the edge of the route in the places where you think it is right to brake. Align them until they are perfectly aligned and you can make an optimized descent.

 

• Gear changes: The branch marking system can also be used up hills to mark gear changes. Start at a good distance, so that you get the whole course with you. Large pegs for shifting at the front - and small pegs for shifting at the back.

 

• Obstacles: Find the right path over an obstacle; roots, holes, branches or other. Feel free to try other possible paths. They are not necessarily better, but they make you smarter and more experienced.

 

 

A better braking technique

 

We brake in order to steer, but while we brake, we cannot steer. That is why it is important to learn a good braking technique so that you avoid accidents. A mountain bike has two brakes – one on the front wheel and one on the rear wheel, but how do you use them best? The bicycle's braking power comes from the grip of the tires on the ground. The grip of the rear wheel comes from the weight our body presses down with, whereas the grip of the front wheel comes from the momentum our body has.

The bicycle itself has little braking power. The low weight (often only 10-20% of the total weight) will not be able to press the wheels down for a proper grip.

 

Rear brake

The brake on the rear wheel is the one most people are used to using the most. Just by staying in the saddle there is enough weight for braking power. As long as the pressure/grip is stable, the rear wheel is also stable, but if you are going downhill, the center of gravity shifts forward. As a result, the rear wheel loses grip and braking power. You can counteract the problem by moving the weight further back on the bike, thereby re-establishing weight pressure on the rear wheel. The rear wheel can lose grip and skid if it leans, as it often does in a corner.

You avoid this by releasing the brake before entering the turn. You can also run into problems and skids on a slippery surface when there is a lot of water, leaves, roots and grass. The advice is to shift the weight backwards. At the same time, you must avoid turning the front wheel, avoid leaning to the side and do not brake so hard that the wheel blocks.

 

Front brake

Many people are reluctant to use the front brake because they might fear going steep and hitting a pot. But the front brake is clearly the most powerful in the terrain. When you use the front brake, your momentum and weight sinks into the front wheel, giving the front wheel a grip that is significantly stronger than the pure force of gravity on the rear wheel. You still have to be careful not to continue forward, but if you shift your weight backwards, you reduce the risk. If you turn the handlebars while using the brake, it is important to remember that the forward force can cause the wheel to bite, swing sideways and stop the drive completely, which can end in a car crash.

If the surface is loose, the risk is even greater, as the wheel has better bite. The solution is to slow down before the turn.

 

Emergency stop

The safe emergency stop is to shift the weight back, use both brakes and straighten the bike. But it is always a delicate balance between too little and too much. Therefore, it is important to practice.

 

Braking technology and steering technology

The hardest part of a downhill is braking while turning. The rear wheel risks slipping, and the front wheel loses most of its steering when braking. You must brake when driving straight down - and turn where there is a good surface for it. The rest you slide over, easily and elegantly - in theory - in reality there is often a little more banging and banging.

 

Good advice on a descent

• Avoid stretched elbows and knees - let them spring with the terrain

• Let the elbows and knees point slightly outwards

• Avoid straining

• Brake when driving straight ahead

• Turn when the ground allows it

• Put any speed up. It can often make it easier, but it requires courage and technique. If it doesn't go well, maybe try one more time.

Stand or sit uphill?

You can choose between standing up, sitting in the saddle or changing a bit on the way up a hill. The choice is individual.

• Standing:

  • The advantage of standing up is greater mobility, but there is a risk of losing grip on the rear wheel. The power is obtained by pulling the handlebars up - or rather the body down. The energy is transferred when you step down/lift up with the pedals.

  • You can use a heavier gear if the hill is not too long.

• Sitting:

  • The advantage of staying seated is that it is easier to step all the way around and keep a light, even, economical thread.

  • To avoid wasting energy, keep your elbows close to your body and pull the handlebars backwards towards the saddle.

 

Choose the right gear

The right gear is the one that doesn't need to be changed. The hard part is timing it. If the gear is too heavy, you'll never get all the way up, and if it's too light, you'll be whipping around with the pedals and losing too much speed. You can change gears along the way, but only on the rear cogs and when the conditions are right. It can, for example, be where the climb is a little flatter and the ground is firmer. When changing gears, you have to ease the pressure on the pedals until the chain has settled on the new chainring. Otherwise, you risk the gear and chain jumping, jumping, locking or simply not wanting to shift. A gear change at the back requires a lighter thread over approx. 1 meter course. Relieving the pressure over a meter can be a challenge in itself on a steep climb.

 

7 tips for MTB driving in the dark

1. Buy a good flashlight:

• An ordinary bicycle light is not powerful enough. The optimum is to have a powerful light on the handlebars that spreads the light. And then a light on the helmet that focuses the light where you look.

2. look forward:

• You must make sure to look as far ahead as possible. You must not look down at the front wheel. Look forward and read the terrain. For example, if you look at the root right in front of you, it is certain that it will cause problems, but if you instead look far ahead, you will be much better at absorbing the root. This of course also applies when driving in daylight, but the problem is just more pronounced in the dark.

 

3.Set your light cone:

• This is connected with the fact that you have to look far ahead. Because that requires that there is light wherever you look. And that is only there if the light cone from the light on the helmet is set correctly. It must shine approximately four to five meters in front of you, and for all intents and purposes must not shine down on the front wheel. Make sure the light is properly secured so that it does not move around while driving.

4.Pay attention to opening times in the forest:

• Always check the rules for the area you are driving in. Especially in connection with driving after dark. The main rule is that private forests are closed to dark driving, while it is permitted in municipal forests.

5. Always drive together with others:

• For all intents and purposes, you should not end up in a situation where you are injured alone in the woods. It's cold and it's a long time before anyone comes by. Therefore, always drive together with others. You can drive some stretches alone, but make sure you know where each other is at all times.

6. Have a good balance:

• Having trained your balance in light will make you better in the dark. Practice that balance does not depend only on your vision.

7. Jump in to it:

• Don't let the darkness limit you. There is so much good MTB terrain in Denmark, and it's a shame not to use it just because it's dark.

 

Maintain and care for your mountain bike

Number 1 - As lubricated in oil, remove the excess:

• All moving parts around the chain and derailleur must be lubricated with oil regularly. The gear change becomes more accurate and precise as a result, and if the gear does not work optimally, it can cause damage to the chain and rear derailleur. Remember to wipe the excess oil off the chain with a cloth, otherwise it will attract dirt that wears unnecessarily and causes friction

Number 2 - Check the gears on the way out to the forest:

• Run through all the gears. If the rear dropout is crooked, it can cause the chain to jump between the sprockets and the spokes in the rear wheel. This damages the spokes and the chain can be very difficult to get back out. You can detect this when you just drive through the gears, then you avoid it happening in the forest under high load.

Number 3 - Check the brake pads:

• If they are completely worn out, it can mean that you suddenly cannot brake when you are going down a steep hill or similar. So better to change them too early than too late.

 

Number 4 - Check your tires:

• If they look tender, they probably are. If the tire cracks or similar in a corner at high speed, you can get off the wrong way, so check the tires. And again, better to change them too soon than too late

Number 5 - Check gaskets on front fork and rear shock:

• This must be done regularly, and you must check whether they look intact. If the dust seal on a front fork is broken, dirt can get down to the inner seal and damage it, causing the fork to leak oil and have to be repaired.

Number 6 – Use acid-free grease for fork legs and rear shock:

• Lubricate the fork legs and rear shock with acid-free grease that can be purchased specifically for this purpose. Spread it with your finger and press the fork down a few times. The grease also lubricates the dust seals so that they do not dry out. Remember to wipe away excess fat. The grease also reduces the friction between the seals and the fork legs, which makes the fork run noticeably better.

Number 7 – The bike must be washed, use different brushes:

• Use lukewarm water with washing-up liquid or similar, and use a good, soft brush. If there is old mud and soil on the bike, take a stiff brush and brush it off first. I use an old toothbrush to wash where it is difficult to reach with a normal brush.

Number 8 – Avoid pressure washers:

• It is very important that you never use a high-pressure cleaner to wash your bike, as the powerful jet of water gets into the bearings and destroys them quickly. The water presses in at the dust cover, which sits on either side of a closed bearing, and it cannot get out again.

Number 9 – Dry the bike properly:

• When you have washed the bike, you must either wipe off the water with a cloth or leave it to dry in the sun. The faster the bike dries, the better.

Number 10 – Avoid salt:

• This of course applies especially in winter. The salt gets in everywhere and destroys the bearings. It can also attack aluminum where the paint may have worn off. If it cannot be avoided, it is important to wash the bike thoroughly after training and let it dry in a warm place.