Climbing is a sporting activity where you primarily use your hands and feet to get up climbing walls, rocks and mountains. Climbing is a safe activity when done correctly and under expert guidance. Therefore, climbing activities must always be carried out by an instructor with relevant training.

 

Most of the climbing gear you use falls under the Personal Protective Equipment category, therefore it must be marked with the CE mark. The CE mark guarantees that the equipment is in accordance with the legal requirements of the EU countries and the requirements of the EU directives for, among other things, safety. CE marking is therefore not an equipment test and does not say anything precise about the equipment's specifications.

Climbing equipment must therefore have both a CE mark and an EN/UIAA approval. The safety equipment must therefore be tested and meet the requirements of a European Norm, e.g. EN 892, dynamic ropes. Or/and be tested by the UIAA.

 

CE and EN overall requirements for equipment

● Be subject to independent testing that meets the European standard (EN).

● Every single piece of equipment sold must be provided with instructions for use and warnings in the national language.

● The manufacturers' own quality control must be approved, e.g. in accordance with the ISO 9000 standard. Symbols for CE, EN and UIAA PV = Personal Protective Equipment (PPE = Personal Protective Equipment) EN norm for harnesses is 12277 (UIAA 105)

 

PV = Personal Protective Equipment

PPE = Personal Protective Equipment

EN standard for harnesses is 12277 (UIAA 105)

 

Rules about climbing

• You must comply with the instructions the instructors give you.

• When climbing, you must wear an approved harness.

• The instructor must check that you have put on the harness correctly before starting the climb.

• You must not start climbing or abseiling until you have been given permission by the instructor.

• The instructor says to you: "You must climb".

• You must not climb higher than 2.5 meters without a safety rope.

• The 2.5 meters are marked in red on the climbing tower.

•   With the instructor's permission, you can climb around the tower to a height of up to 2.5 meters if no one else is climbing the walls.

•   When rappelling from the tower, there must be a maximum of 2 people on the top floor of the tower per instructor.

• Loosely hanging hair, scarves, jewelry, watches and the like must be put on or taken off before climbing or abseiling begins.

Equipment

 

Climb Harnesses

Braces are available, within the four main types, seat belts, chest belts, full-body belts and children's belts, in many variants. It is important to read the manufacturer's instructions for using the harness. This usually sits, as a small illustration, in some clips on the harness. Braces consist of polyamide/nylon in wide bands. In order for a harness to be approved by the UIAA, it must meet the following strength requirements:

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UIAA strength requirements for harnesses=Binding, pull up=Binding, pull down=Hip belt=Work loop

Seat harness=1500 daN=Noithing=1000 daN =1500 daN

Breast harness= Nothing=1000 daN=Nothing=Nothing

Full body harness=1500 daN=1000 daN=1000 daN= 1500 daN

Children harness=1000 daN=700 daN=1000 daN=1000 daN

 

Seat harness

Sit-climb harnesses are available in many varieties, but what they have in common is that they consist of a part that is tightened around the stomach above the hip bone, and a part that goes around the rear and thighs, so that the majority of the load is absorbed by the thighs and rear . The most frequently used type of harness today is the model, which consists of a hip belt and two leg loops, which are gathered together with a very strong sling on the front of the harness. Furthermore, there are a number of equipment loops.

• Hip belt 

  • The hip belt is closed with one or two buckles and must be fastened so tightly over the hips that it cannot be forced down over the hip bone. This is particularly important in case you have to tip around. If the hip part is not tightened properly, you can slip out of the harness.

• Work loop: 

  • This sling, which brings together the two parts of the harness, is not intended directly as a tie-in point for first-person climbing, but for connecting a rope brake, descent/abseiling brake, rope clamps, slings for self-belaying, etc. during descent, belaying and self-belaying. It is therefore called the work loop. 

• Binding points: 

  • When binding with the rope in the harness, the rope must go through both the upper and lower parts of the harness in the so-called binding points.

• Leg loop: 

  • The leg loops are either not adjustable in size, or they can be adjusted with a buckle. The leg loops should fit, but not be tight. At the back of the harness there are usually some thin bands that connect the leg loops to the hip belt. The function of these is only to hold the leg loops up. If they don't fit correctly, the leg loops of some people can hang so far down that they end up in the hips, forcing the thighs up towards the chest.

• Equipment loop: 

  • Most harnesses have equipment loops sitting on the hip belt. They are only for hanging carabiners etc. i. They only hold 10-30 kg. They can either be made from a wide nylon band or molded in plastic.

Chest climbing harnesses

Chest harnesses are used exclusively as a supplement to the seat belt, so that you avoid tipping backwards in the event of a crash. This can be an advantage in some climbing events, where e.g. are participants with very high weight, and in some cases when rescuing climbers in distress. Bras must not be used alone. A breast harness can be purchased for some seat belts and the manufacturer's instructions for tying must then be followed. Otherwise, you must remember to tie the two belts together correctly, so that the binding of each belt is independent of the other belt. If a chest harness is used, carabiners must not be used for binding. The risk of injury when the carbine hits the face during a crash is too great.

 

Full body harnesses

The full-body harness is a combined seat and chest harness. In function, in the event of a crash, it is, however, far better than a separate seat and chest harness. When tying the two separate harnesses together, it is very difficult to place the tie-in and balance point in the optimal place. Despite these facts, full body harnesses are very rarely seen in sport, wall, rock and tree climbing; but on the other hand always within rope access and building climbing. However, a full-body harness has an advantage if the climber is a bit on the heavy side in terms of weight, in which case the full-body harness is much more comfortable.

​

The disadvantages of a full-body harness are primarily:

1. Difficult to put on

2. Inhibits the movements

3. Difficult if you e.g. must wear an extra shirt.

4. More expensive to invest in full body harnesses.

5. Difficult to secure from a full-body harness is also primarily justified in first-person climbing, where the risk of tipping backwards is greater. If you keep the rope reasonably tight during top-secured climbing, the risk is very small.

​

Children's climbing harnesses

Children's harnesses are designed as full-body harnesses or combined chest and seat harnesses, but adapted to the small sizes from approx. 5-9 years. You should always use child restraints for children, as the center of gravity and body structure do not always suit seat belts.

 

Binding

There are quite a few other seat belt types on the market. Especially models for club and institutional use often have a fixed binding eye, which distributes the pressure between both parts of the harness. These eyes are good for beginners as it makes tying somewhat simpler and thus minimizes the risk of mistakes. Binding The point will be located in, or close to, the center of gravity, this is to avoid rotation in the harness in the event of a crash, which will often cause whiplash or neck injuries. Binding takes place, as the word says, by tying yourself into the safety rope with an approved binding knot. For most people, this will mean a sewn double figure-of-eight knot.
 

• You must always make the binding according to the manufacturer's instructions for the harness in question.

• Binding with carabiners must never be used on regular full-body harnesses and never for first-person climbing.

• Since new types of harnesses are constantly coming on the market, you must always read the instructions on the harness before use.

 

Storage, transport, Maintenance and disposal of climbing harnesses

 

As mentioned, the braces are made of polyamide, also called nylon. As this material perishes over time, i.a. because it is degraded by the sunlight, it is recommended that braces be discarded 5 years after the first use date or 10 years from the production date, unless the manufacturer recommends otherwise. They must be kept neat and clean and can be washed in hand-warm water, i.e. 35-40⁰ possibly added 1 tablespoon of mild soap. Rinse thoroughly and hang to dry. The suspenders must not be put in the tumble dryer, nor in a very hot boiler room.

 

As with all climbing equipment made of polyamide/nylon, the harness must be discarded after the following events:

 

• After factor 1 crash or higher.

• If there is visible wear, stitching with broken threads.

•   If it is over 5(10) years old. Or according to the manufacturer's instructions.

• If it has been exposed to aggressive chemicals, e.g. strong acid or strong bases

• If it has been exposed to frictional heat and has melted or has a glazed surface

• If there are defective buckles.

• If it simply does not fit the size

• If you do not know the use of the e.g. because no equipment log book has been kept

 

Rope 

 

Ropes can be divided into two main types and some subtypes:

1. Dynamic ropes (EN 892)

   1. Whole rope

   2. Half rope

   3. Twin rope

2.   Semi-static (EN 1891)

   1. Type A

   2. Type B

Only dynamic full ropes can be recommended where there is a risk of a fall. Only semi-static ropes Type A can be recommended for climbing in situations where there is no risk of a fall, or for the construction of rope courses in, among other things, trees.

 

The rope is the most important tool in our safety chain and is also often used in tree climbing to climb directly on. For climbing, core sheath rope is used, which means that the rope is constructed with a core and a sock on the outside of this core.

The stocking protects the core and gives the rope a more suitable surface. The core is made of nylon and is either twisted or braided. Dynamic ropes were traditionally sold in lengths of 50 meters. What is referred to in the rock climbing world as one length of rope is thus the distance between the pitches on a rock route and it can theoretically, at least in the past, be a maximum of 50m. Nowadays, dynamic ropes are typically sold in lengths of 60 to 80 meters, corresponding to the length between pitches on new rock climbing routes. Dynamic rope is also available in meter sizes, just like semi static ropes are. We use the semi-static type of rope for the construction of rope courses, sometimes for top rope climbing, and possibly for rope climbing, where you climb up the rope itself. That is, in situations where long falls cannot occur and where it is an advantage that the rope is not overly elastic. We primarily use the dynamic rope types to secure and stop any falls. Dynamic ropes are therefore designed to absorb the energy of a crash.
 

Dynamic rope

 

A dynamic rope is designed to be able to absorb a sufficient part of the energy in the worst possible crash in climbing, which is called a factor 2 crash. The rope is therefore able to slow down the fall in a way that the body does not take serious damage. Yes, in some cases it can even feel like a pleasant "bungy jump".

 

When buying a rope, make sure that:

• That it has the necessary approval (EN 892) and of course CE

• That the production date is current or previous year.

• That it is a complete rope, i.e. marked with a number 1 in a ring. We only use solid ropes in tree climbing.

• That it has not been unpacked in the store's display window.

• The diameter is at the thick end, i.e. 10-10.5 mm, so that the wear resistance is high and handling is easier.

 

Dynamic ropes must comply with EN 892 (UIAA 101)

 

 

Here is an example of a dynamic rope's ability to absorb energy:

• If you imagine the situation of falling 60 cm in a 60 cm nylon sling, which is one of the most static devices we have. The decrease corresponds to a factor 1 decrease, and could easily occur if, for example, is clipped into a top belay with a 60 cm sling (16 mm nylon) and stands with the binding point next to the top belay and then crashes. In this case, you will be affected with a force called a snap, of 12 kN i.e. approx. 1200 kg. If, on the other hand, you fall 60 cm in a 60 cm dynamic full rope (10 mm), the impact/catch pull will "only" be 6 kN, i.e. approx. 600 kg. So half of it.

 

Semi static ropes

 

A semi-static rope, which most people call a static rope, has completely different properties than dynamic ropes. It has a higher breaking strength than a dynamic rope; often up to around 30 kN. The test requirement is 22 kN. The semi static rope has a much lower static elasticity; hence the name. 3-5% (test weight 150 kg.) against dynamic ropes of 7- 9% (test weight 80 kg.) The semi-static rope has worse knot properties. Cross-braided ropes, Double braided arborist, ropes have reasonably good knot properties, however. Because of the lower elasticity, crashing in a semi static rope will not be much fun. Fang The jerk will be too great and in many cases so great that you will suffer serious injuries.

 

However, there are many contexts where precisely the dynamics of a rope is a handicap. eg. For rope climbing, rope courses, cableways and abseiling courses, the semi-static ropes are better, and the dynamic ones do not benefit from the static load from a stretched rope course. Semi Static ropes can also be used in other places where there is no risk of a fall with a fall factor higher than 0.2, e.g. as a top rope course at events. when climbing on a top-secured course, over 20 meters, where the belay is from the ground, you will be able to fall 1-3 meters at the start of the course due to the elasticity of a dynamic rope. Here it is worth considering the use of semi static rope.

 

Storage, transport, maintenance and disposal of ropes

 

As the rope is an important part of the safety chain, it is extremely important to take good care of it and to observe some ethical rules regarding the handling of the rope.

 

Enemies of the rope

• Sharp edges

• Friction heat

• UV light (sunlight) breaks down the rope.

• Chemicals

• Acid and base

• Urine

• Soil/dust/dirt

• Sharp breaks and continuous stress (wall climbing, top rope climbing, abseiling)

 

If any of the following changes have occurred to your rope, it should be discarded. 

• The stocking has become very woolly.

• The rope has become very uneven to the touch.

• There is damage to the stocking, so the core is visible.

• The rope is discolored and smells "chemical" as a sign of contact with paint, chemicals or the like

• The rope feels very stiff, possibly very oval. It is a sign of internal damage if it becomes thin, flat or cracks.

• The rope has been exposed to a factor 1 crash or worse.

• Even with infrequent or no use, ropes and other nylon products degrade. follow the manufacturer's instructions for service life. If the manufacturer does not specify anything, then the maximum lifespan is 10 years. with little use and 5 years with heavy use

• The marking of the rope does not exist, or the age is not known and no logbook has been kept of the rope

.

 

The life of the rope depends on how often and for what it is used. When used for tree climbing, the following rules of thumb can be used for general wear:

1. Intensive use 1 month to 1 year 2

2. Regular use 2-5 years 3.

3. Rare use 5-10 years

 

For credibility here, it is crucial that a logbook is kept of equipment and climbs, as well as safety checks.

Storage of rope:

 

Always store the rope in a cool, dark and dry place. as far as possible, it should always be laid or hung in such a way that it has the opportunity to dry and be permeated by air. The rope bag can e.g. be with holes in (mesh) or the rope can be laid 4 double and finger crocheted, after which it can be easily hung up for airing.

 

Transport of ropes:

 

Transport it in a rope bag, small backpack or similar. Not free, hanging outside on the rucksack, lying in the trunk of the car or on the bed of the pick-up together with petrol cans etc. A rope bag or similar can also be used to transport the rope between the trees and this also means that the rope does not have to lie on the ground when it needs to be used. Handling during climbing All climbing starts with a safety check of equipment. The rope is run through the hand and down onto/into a tablecloth/bag, thereby feeling for and observing whether the rope is ok. At the same time, the rope is laid out, ready for climbing to avoid "spaghetti mode" in the middle of the route.

• Try to avoid the rope lying directly on the ground

• Do not step on ropes and equipment

• Do not drag the rope across the ground from one tree to another.

• Do not leave the rope out in the sun more than necessary.

• Smokers must not stay near ropes and equipment due to the danger of losing embers

• Do not place ropes and equipment near fires and the like due to flying sparks

• Be conscious of using the rope equally from both ends, so that it is not the same end that always wears out.

•  

 

Maintenance:

 

The rope must be washed regularly to maintain flexibility and dynamism and to prevent dust and very small stones from working their way into the rope. Soak the rope in a tub of hand-warm water, i.e. at 35-40 degrees possibly with a tbsp. soap shavings, but this is rarely necessary. If the rope becomes very worn at the ends, it may be necessary to cut the outermost ones approx. 1-2 meters off. In this way, the length of the rope must be measured again and a new end mark must be placed at both ends of the rope with the new length indication. This work can be advantageously done at the annual safety check, where changes must be made to the registration of the equipment in the equipment log anyway.

 

Heat and friction

 

Nylon has a melting point of approx. 265⁰C and can therefore be damaged by heat. Frictional heat often causes damage to the rope. The rope becomes "glazed" and hard to the touch. Top rope climbing with frequent abseiling is extra tiring. Pit Schubert's study for the DAV, the Deutschen Alpenverein, shows, among other things, that ordinary top rope climbing, where the belayer fours the climber down, wears out more than twice as much as free climbing, where you four yourself down. Climbing wall Climbing, where you let yourself down on all fours after clipping in, while the rope runs through everyone between the belays, is really tiring. The same applies if this method is used for tree climbing. The study shows that this wears out up to 10 times as much as free climbing and own abseiling. Nylon sliding against nylon is especially bad. This happens if you let the rope run over a sling, when you e.g. fours a person down, or if two ropes run through the same carabiner and one is pulled through quickly. If you abseil very quickly, the abseil brake can also get so hot that it damages the rope and thus glazes the surface. Some rope brakes wear more than others. After just 50 abseils with a figure of 8 at a leisurely pace, the rope's resistance to sharp edges weakens by 1/3. The same applies to the thin throwing line, which is used to hang out at night instead of the rope, so that the rope can be quickly pulled back into place. If the transport line is still in the carabiner after the climbing rope has been pulled up, the thin throwing line must be pulled down very slowly and carefully. If a thin string is pulled quickly over a nylon rope, the rope that is lying still can easily melt over, or be significantly damaged.

 

Chemicals

 

Chemicals, especially strong bases and acids, damage the rope. The battery acid from the car is particularly bad. Organic solvents do not damage nylon, but damage the rope's additives: color, softeners and spray treatment, i.e. water-repellent effect. Therefore, e.g. petrol damages the rope. Marking the rope, other than at the very ends, is not recommended as even products for this very purpose have been shown to be harmful to the rope. Tests have seen a weakening of the rope's strength of up to 50%!

 

Dirt and dung

 

Gravel, soil and dirt damage the rope when it gets under the sock. The small sharp particles cut the rope. Wash the rope when it looks dirty. When climbing trees, the rope can get very dirty, especially from wet trees, and should be washed more often.

​

 

Static and dynamic loads over time

 

When the rope is stretched during long falls, it loses some of the dynamism that is so important. Also, many small falls, many bends over carabiners, descents and continuous stretching go beyond the dynamic capabilities of the rope. In the event of a fall with a high factor, however below ff=1, otherwise the rope must be discarded, the rope should have time to contract properly again, tie up knots and tie them in another place on the rope and change if necessary. end of the rope.

 

Slings

 

Slings must comply with EN 566 (UIAA 104) Test requirements for ready-made slings:

• Breaking strength: min. 2200 daN.

• Seams must have contrasting colors so that wear is not overlooked. (UIAA requirements)

• Must be marked with year of manufacture and breaking strength.

• Longitudinal stripes on the slings say nothing about the sling's breaking strength. Recommendations for tree climbing:

• Buy only ready-made slings.

• Buy only nylon slings.

• The lengths 120cm are most useful, but some 60cm can also be recommended. Polyamide (PA) is the material of the sales product

 

Nylon is made of. Polyethylene (UHMWPE = Ultra High Molecular Polyethylene) is the material from which the sales products: Dyneema, Dynex and Spectra are made. Polyethylene naphthalene = Polyester Polyester is, however, close to Nylon in relation to strength and price, but close to Dyneema in relation to the other properties. Aramid = aromatic Polyamide. Is the material from which the sales product Kevlar, Twaron, Technora and Nomex are made

 

Ready-made slings:

 

Slings are used as our primary means of safety in tree climbing in particular. Slings are considered to be static. The durability and handling of slings is about the same as with rope. However, the rascals' relatively low price means that there is no reason to hesitate to discard them if they show signs of wear or torn threads. The sling is not damaged in the same way as dynamic rope by repeated bends and loads, since we consider them static, it does not matter that the elasticity is lost. However, test trials clearly show that the small increased elasticity in nylon slings compared to Aramid/dyneema slings means something (see the chart below). 

Slings are made of very different materials: Nylon, Dyneema, Polyester and Aramid. Many slings are combinations of the materials mentioned. The slings have different widths, ranging from approx. 6-26 mm, and can for the most part be bought in the standard lengths: 30 cm, 60 cm, 120 cm and 240 cm. Other lengths are also available.

 

Ekspres Slinger also called Quickdraws

 

Short pieces of sewn together sling with a loop at each end for carabiner attachment. A piece of sling rubber is often mounted in the lower loop to fix the carabiner. Used for rock climbing and wall climbing

 

Nylon Slings

 

Made of polyamide, also called nylon, just like the ropes. They are cheaper than the dyneema slings, and the material makes them more dynamic and more durable. Nylon Slings are suitable for tree climbing.

 

Spectra and Dyneema Slings

 

These slings are made of polyethylene. The material cannot be dyed, and colored polyamide or polyester is therefore usually woven in, which gives the tape a characteristic appearance with a pattern of alternating colored and white fibers. Special precautions must be taken in relation to slings made of this material, as they already melt at a temperature of 130 C compared to nylon's 265 C, which is why it is less suitable in connection with fencing, where there is a risk of friction between rope and slings.

The material is less elastic, i.e. with an elongation at break of 3.5% compared to nylon's 16 - 24% and therefore gives less. On the other hand, the strength of a 5 mm cord is approx. 3 times as large as in a string made of nylon.

 

Storage, transport, maintenance and disposal of slings

 

Slings are treated in the same way as ropes. you wash them in lukewarm water, possibly adding mild soap when they appear dirty.

They must be replaced:

 

• If severe wear is detected.

• After a strong steering ie. (decrease factor 1 or more.

• In case of contact with harmful chemicals.

• After 5(10) years as with other nylon equipment.

​

Prusik cord, rope cord, friction cord

 

The string is mainly used to make pinch knots with, among other things used as a backup when launching etc., see "Knob and knots". The Prusik rope is made, like the rope, from core sheath with an inner core of nylon and an outer stocking. It is available in several different thicknesses, where the breaking strength increases in line with the thickness. In order to be able to tie pinch knots on the rope, the diameter of the prusik cord must be smaller than the diameter of the rope. For us, this will correspond to a diameter of 5-6 mm when we use a 10-11 mm rope. The breaking strength is typically 520 daN for 5 mm and 800 daN for 6 mm. This breaking strength is large enough to cope with the loads that are in traditional use, as a backup for abseil braking as well as for rope climbing. A prusik knot made of thicker cord e.g. 7mm will be more difficult to work with and will often slip more easily, with the risk of melting from the heat of friction in the event of a fall. The decisive factor as to whether the string used to tie the knots will last is how far it can slide before it locks completely. If the knot slips too far, the knot melts. Therefore, you must always ensure that you can never fall more than half a meter before the prusik is tightened. When rope climbing, you don't fall further than half a meter, even if you had to pull out of the foot sling, and you always use a tether, i.e. backup of the rope. If you want to use a rope clamp or clamp knot as self-protection during rescue or in situations where you have to climb alone, it is recommended that you use a mechanical rope brake Shunt etc. as it is practically impossible to move the prusik knot often enough.

 

Prusik cord Must comply with EN 564 (UIAA 102) Test requirements:

 

• Diameter in whole mm and in the range 4-8mm. 

Requirement for breaking strength

-Diameter 4mm=  Minimum broken piece(DaN) 320

-Diameter 5mm=  Minimum broken piece(DaN) 500

-Diameter 6mm=  Minimum broken piece(DaN) 720

-Diameter 7mm=  Minimum broken piece(DaN) 980

-Diameter 8mm=  Minimum broken piece(DaN) 1280

​

Recommendations:

• Buy a 5-6 mm prusik cord of a type that has good knotting properties. Many climbers use 5mm.

• Never use clamp knots tied with friction cord where these can be exposed to serious falls.

 

Carabiners

 

Carabiners are an important safety link in our safety chain and therefore the right choice and use of carabiners is just as important as with the climbing rope. There are therefore also thousands of different brands and variants of carabiners on the market. All manufacturers come up with new variants every year. In climbing, locking carabiners of the HMS type are primarily used. However, we also use all the other types in different contexts. As with other safety equipment, it is important that the carabiners have the correct approvals and markings. Most cabins are made of either aluminum or steel. Normally you always work with aluminum carabiners, as they are lighter and cheaper, but in permanent top anchors, in which there is a lot of fishing, it can be a big advantage to use steel carabiners, as they are much more durable.

 In fixed top anchors, it is also an advantage to have fixedly oriented locking carabiners, type D, because it is thus less likely that they will turn around and be loaded inappropriately.

 

Remember! 

• Regardless of the type of carabiner, you must always check that it is closed correctly, faces correctly and sits in the right place.

Carabiners must comply with EN 12275 (UIAA 121) This standard covers sports use ie. mountain climbing etc. Many carabiners also comply with EN362 which is the industrial use of fall protection equipment (PPE)

Test requirements for carabiners:

• Minimum 5N (500g) force to open the carabiner

 

Carabiners without lock, also called ordinary carabiners

 

Carabiners without a lock are used between belays, to hang equipment in and where high security is not required, e.g. for a foot sling or as the top carabiner in an ascender. They are gradually available in many designs especially for express slings such as the lower carabiner. In extreme sport climbing on rocks and climbing walls, it is often crucial that this particular carabiner is easy to cut the rope in. This means that carabiners are made with a curved closure and often also with a special "groove" for the rope. Therefore, these carabiners must always face the opening downwards and are not intended to connect slings. If you use these special carabiners differently, it will cause incorrect loading of both sling and carabiner. Since in tree climbing we should turn the carabiner with the shutter upwards and away from the trunk after cutting the rope, these carabiners are not so suitable for tree climbing. Carabiners with D-shape or asymmetrical D-shape with straight closure are preferred.

 

Recommendations for general carabiners:

• Buy regular carabiners, type B for intermediate belays with straight shutter and D shape.

• Buy one regular oval carabiner, type X, for the upper eye in ascending.

• Buy carabiners with a "key-lock" closure. They don't hang so easily on clothes, slings and ropes.

• Buy the cheapest ones

When placing intermediate belays, turn the carabiner with the shutter upwards and the opening outwards, so that the rope cannot snap out of the carabiner in the event of a crash.

 

Locking carabiners

 

Carabiners with lock are used in all places where safety depends on a single carabiner, i.e. in tree climbing almost everywhere other than between the belays. The lock ensures that the shutter is closed all the time, so that the carabiner maintains its maximum strength in the longitudinal direction, and that you are sure that the rope is not accidentally cut out of the carabiner. Locking carabiners can have different designs, primarily D shape, but also pear shape, oval and asymmetrical D shape. Locking carabiners also have different lock types (screw, twistlock, safelock, ball-lock, magnetic) and with different types of lock design (key-lock, hook). In other words, locking carabiners are available in "1000" different designs, lock types, etc. here is an attempt at a division: In terms of security, the focus should be on the highlighted types.

• Screw carabiner

•   Ordinary

• Directional

• 3-stage (Belay master)

• Self-locking carabiner (Auto-lock)

• 2-stage (twist-lock, pinch-lock, slider)

  • Ordinary

  • Directional

• 3-stage (Tri-lock, Ball-lock, magnetron, bayonet)

  • Ordinary

  • Directional

 

Recommendations for Locking carabiners:

• Stick to one type of locking mechanism, at least as a beginner.

• Weight safety is higher than price and weight. Buy a self-locking system and 3-stage lock.

• Do not buy new sophisticated lock types that have not been tested in tree climbing.

• Buy at least one directional belay carabiner.

• Buy carabiners with a "key-lock" closure. They don't hang so easily on clothes, slings and ropes.

• Buy carabiners in a size you can handle with one hand.

• Buy primarily pear-shaped carabiners (HMS) as they are most useful for several situations.

 

Screw carabiners ie. carabiners with manual lock, 2-stage lock

 

The traditional screw carabiner has a ring with threads in it, sitting on the shutter itself. This ring can be screwed to the end where the carabiner is opened, so that the shutter is closed and locked. This type is still commonly used. However, you must be aware that when it is used for e.g. the top belay in tree climbing, the locking side of the carabiner must face away from the trunk or near sitting branches, as it can open if the lock "rolls" across the trunk repeatedly. Carabiners lengthen a little under load, so if you screw the carabiner in while it is under load, it can be very difficult to screw it back up when it is no longer under load! Therefore, do not apply force and tighten too hard when you lock the carabiner.

 

Advantages of screw carabiners:

• Cheap

• Easy to open and close in stressful situations

• Can be easily operated with one hand

• Can be used as a normal carabiner in the unlocked state.

• Good resistance to impurities (mud, twigs, etc.)

 

Disadvantages of screw carabiners:

• Not self-locking

• You easily forget to lock them.

• Can be opened more easily accidentally by ropes etc

• Can lock itself in case of inappropriate use

 

 

Twistlock, Pinch-lock and Sliders (Self-locking, 2-stage lock)

 

Quicklock or Twistlock is a self-locking carabiner, where the lock just has to be turned 900 to open, and which automatically closes when you release.

 

Pinch-lock carabiners, you just have to press some sticks on both sides of the shutter and then open the carabiner. Sliders simply pull or push the shutter to open it. These carabiners should not be used as locking carabiners anymore. Because they can be opened very easily by the rope and because there are better alternatives.

 

Safe-lock, Tri-lock, (Self-locking, 3-stage locks)

 

These types are far more secure than the 2-stage lock types. regarding the risk of the rope or sling being able to open the carabiner. Tri-lock carabiners are self-locking and have become very common. to open, the shutter must be rotated 900 and pushed along the shutter. This type is a good alternative to the screw carabiner and in many areas safer. There is extensive experience with the use of this type of locking carabiner in tree climbing. Widely used in professional tree climbing. Ball-lock Opened by pressing a small ball on the side of the shutter and at the same time turning the shutter 900, the carabiner can then be opened. In this context, a very safe carabiner that can hardly be opened by random movements of rope etc. However, it can be difficult to operate with gloves on, and the locking system tends to be more easily blocked by dirt and grime.

 

Advantages of Tri-lock carabiners:

• Quick to use

• Locks itself. Always remember to check whether it is now closed properly

• Good security. Cannot be easily opened accidentally by ropes and equipment.

 

Disadvantages:

• Requires some practice to open with one hand.

• More expensive to acquire than screw carabiners.

 

The shape of the locking carabiner

• D or oval: 

  • D- or oval-shaped locking carabiners are excellent for situations where they are only loaded in two ways and where you do not need to use an HMS knot. Oval carabiners are preferable in some types of wheels (pulleys) and in ascending upper eye. Here they sit better and more symmetrically. 

 

• Pear shaped: 

  • The pear-shaped locking carabiners are slightly more expensive, but also usable in far more situations. They have room to make an HMS knot and are therefore often called an HMS carabiner. They withstand pulls in three directions much better, and they are easier to use in the harness when self-securing in a standing position, as there is more space for slings and ropes. Directional: Carabiners with some form of retention of the rope at the narrow end of the carabiner are much safer to use in situations where the carabiners are not under constant load and therefore risk rotating and thus being cross-loaded or loaded across the carabiner's locking mechanism. It is especially the safety carabiner that is exposed to being able to rotate. Also places where the carabiners are not under constant observation, e.g. in a top belay, it would be an advantage that the carabiners cannot rotate.

 

Storage, transport, maintenance and disposal of carabiners

 

The durability of aluminum carabiners is in principle infinite, however they will corrode in very wet or salty environments. Carabiners should be rinsed if they are dirty or have gotten salt. Until recently, in most of the climbing world, it was said that carabiners and other metal must be discarded when falling from more than 2-3 meters. This is still enforced in many places as a rule. However, no one can find studies that prove the truth of this, on the contrary, quite a few old carbines have been tested after losses and none of these were damaged.

 

Recommendation:

If metal equipment is demonstrably hit hard either because it is dropped from a very high height on a hard surface or because a heavy object e.g. a piece of rock falls on top of the equipment, then this should be discarded. If the equipment is dropped from the trees, do a thorough inspection of it and then safely hang it back in the harness again, unless the equipment has visible damage after the fall. If you are not comfortable using the equipment yourself, you must in any case discard it. "better safe than sorry" Carabiners found by the rocks or in the forest should be discarded for safety reasons. The function of the shutter should be checked regularly, but try to avoid greasing. Try washing first. If you need to lubricate, use very, very little of e.g. Teflon, graphite powder or similar acid-free lubricants. If the carabiner has been hung on bolts or wedges and has been heavily loaded, it may have had scratches, unevenness or burrs.

If it is then used to run ropes or slings through, it may damage the rope or sling. The carabiner is therefore subsequently unusable for tree climbing. If an aluminum carabiner has been used so much for firing that it has left uneven marks on the rope, it should be discarded

 

Rope brakes

Holding the weight of a climber hanging from a rope with the hands is difficult or almost impossible. If the climber is allowed to fall a few meters before the rope becomes tight, he/she weighs 5-10 times his own weight, and then it is absolutely impossible. Therefore, a rope brake must be used, which transfers the force from the climber to the belay man's harness and the bottom/top belay, or the stand. The belayer's weight also helps to slow down the fall when belaying in the harness. Different types of rope brakes are used here. Rope brakes can roughly be divided into 2 main types (however, see the standard's division to the right):

.

1. "Dynamic" rope brakes, such as Sticht, ATC, Tube, Reverso, HMS and eights and many more

2. "Static" assisted rope brakes such as Grigri, Smart, Jul, Click-up, ATC pilot, Eddy, Rig, I`D, GriGri + and many more. A motley group that can easily be divided into 3 subgroups

   1. Assisted brakes that have no moving parts. Smart, Mega Jul, Click-up, alpine-up, etc. these work much like the regular rope brakes mentioned under point 1.

   2.   Assisted brakes with moving parts.: Grigri, Rig and others.

   3. Assisted brakes with moving parts and panic function.: I´D, Grigri + , Matik, Eddy and others.

 

Rope brakes must comply with EN 15151-1&2 (UIAA 129)

 

Rope brakes are divided into (the norm)

 

1. Manual rope brakes (Stitch type)

2. Assisted rope brakes (GriGri 2, Rig, Mega Jul, and more)

3. Abseil Brakes, (Eight) 4. Assisted Abseil Brakes with panic function (I'D, GriGri +, Matik

 

Test requirements: Static strength:

• Manual brakes > 700 daN

• Assisted brake > 800 daN

• Blockage test Assisted brakes must be able to hold 200 daN without sliding more than 30 cm. Dynamic strength:

• Only assisted brakes are tested with 80 kg approx. factor 1.5 decrease. Must then be able to be brought to the ground and the brake must not slide more than 150 cm below the crash.

 

Dynamic rope brakes ie. brakes of the Sticht type, and assisted brakes without moving parts.

 

The Stitch Brake is still the most used rope brake, although the assisted brake types are gaining ground. The Sticht type is a very simple and effective friction brake. The technique is that a bay of the climbing rope is inserted through an oval hole in the brake and a locking carabiner is inserted into the rope bay on the other side, and the carabiner is inserted into the working loop of the harness. Many of the assisted brake types mentioned under 2a work in the same way. They all work according to the same principle, in that you always have a braking hand on the passive end of the rope at the right angle to the brake. The active end of the rope is the end that the climber is tied into. The passive end is the end where the rest of the rope lies. These two ends must point separate ways from Sticht type rope brakes. There must always be at least one hand on the passive end of the rope, hereafter called the braking hand. This principle applies to all rope brakes - including the assisted types. The Stitch Brake can be used on both single and double ropes and is good for short abseils, i.e. under 50 meters and really good for beginners, as it brakes without needing great effort. If you are familiar with your sticht, it can be used in virtually all tree climbing situations. If you have made a hanging stand up in the tree and top-secured it from here, it is not so good, however. When the active roper/climber comes from below, you have to hold the passive end opposite, i.e. upwards. This is very tiring in the long run as you have to lift all the excess rope. Here, gravity works against the belayer, where it normally helps to slow down. This can be solved by letting the passive end of the rope run through a carabiner that hangs over the brake, or even better by using an HMS rather than a stinger in these situations. When abseiling, the stitcher twists the rope very little, but wears a bit more on the rope than, for example, an 8 would do. When lowering the belay very quickly, it and the carabiner become too hot, and you run the risk of damaging the rope.

 

The thin wire that is often on the brake is just to keep it inside the carabiner so that it doesn't slip out of the rope and to avoid dropping it, but has no safety function. The assisted brakes without moving parts are gaining ground mainly because they help to slow down a fall and because they are not terribly much more expensive than the old types. However, it is a bit more complicated to learn and use these types and there is not yet much experience with them.

Recommendations:

• Buy a stitch type rope brake with space for double rope and of the latest generation (high braking power).

• The rope brake must match the diameter of the climbing rope (10-11mm)

• If you are a very light climber (or a not so physically strong climber) you can also consider acquiring an assisted rope brake for double ropes. eg. Mega Christmas

• Buy an Assisted brake with moving parts. Possibly. with panic function and possibly approved for rescue with 2 people if the need is there.

 

Advantages:

• Simple to use and intuitive

• Easy

• Cheap

• Can be used on both single and double ropes

•   Can be used for abseiling

• The assisted types lock during a crash.

 

Disadvantages:

• Does not lock during a crash (except for the assisted types)

• The assisted types can be more difficult to handle.

 

Remember!

• Always keep one hand on the brake end of the rope.

• Always abseil at a slow, controlled pace.

• Remember to backup

 

Belaying with belay during top rope climbing:

1. Hand position when belaying with a tight brake in the top rope.

2. There must always be one hand on the P end, the passive end, of the rope.

3. When pulled in, the hand on the passive end is moved behind the body into the locking position.

4. The hand is then moved from A, the active end, to P to assist

5. While the right hand is moved to the brake again.

6. The hand from A is moved back to A.

7. The passive end is moved forward again so that the brake is no longer locked.

8. So you can push the P end away from you again. Securing during first person climbing: When securing the first person on the way up, a firm grip is kept on the P end while the rope is passed through the brake. Keep the P side in the lock position, as in 3, when the climber is not moving or if he falls.

 

HMS knots

 

The HMS knot is a knot that you tie directly on a locking carabiner. This locking carabiner must be large and pear-shaped and is usually called the HMS carabiner. HMS carabiners are marked with an H in a circle. The knot functions as a stitch and figure 8 with brake and feeding hand. It can be used for both belaying and belaying on both single and double ropes. The disadvantage of the knot is that it wears and twists the rope more than other rope brakes, but it is really good to know if you e.g. lose the stitch or the 8.

However, it should be thoroughly practiced before using it. The HMS knot also has the advantage that it locks, regardless of the angle at which the brake hand is held. This makes it particularly useful for top securing from hanging pitches. It works best if it is placed in a top fuse that hangs slightly above the fuse man's head. In this way, you simply have to hold the passive end of the rope downwards with the braking hand and thereby get the help of the weight from the rest of the rope. You can thus comfortably sit up in the tree and secure the whole day. When using the HMS knot as a rope brake directly in the top belay, you do not need to establish a bottom belay next to your stand up in the tree, as there will never be a direct pull on the belayer. In contrast to stitch and figure 8, the HMS brakes best when both rope ends run the same way, i.e. parallel, out of the brake. When stopping very long falls with a high fall factor or very fast descents, the HMS puts a lot of wear on the rope.

 

When belaying and lowering with HMS, you must ensure that the passive end of the rope comes out of the carabiner on the opposite side of the shutter. Otherwise, the rope can unscrew the lock, open the shutter and slide out of the carabiner, so that the HMS knot goes up.

 

Clothes & shoes

 

Clothing varies, of course, according to one's own temperament, weather, wind and season. Some can climb in sandals, others in rubber shoes, but in general it makes sense to wear a boot that protects the ankle from twisting, has a non-slip sole and is stiff in the sole, so that the foot does not get pinched if you step into a branch gorge or . Eq. It can be smart to use climbing shoes, especially on climbing walls.

 

The clothes must be comfortable to move in and can be adjusted according to the activity and a changing temperature, as it is cold to stand or sit still and safe, while you quickly get warm when you have to climb yourself. As far as possible, avoid large pockets, flapping straps and other loose parts that can get caught in branches or handles along the way.

 

Water-repellent outerwear can be an advantage in stormy weather. Furthermore, it must be able to withstand getting dirty, especially when climbing trees or rocks, as trees and rocks have a habit of growing green and slimy moss everywhere. It is always a good idea to bring a small hat and a pair of mittens. Although it does not immediately feel cold, you can quickly get cold fingers when you stand and work with your hands out of your pocket, and it is very difficult to open and close carabiners with cold fingers.

 

 

 

Log book for ropes and equipment, so-called Equipment log

 

You should keep a log of your equipment, especially if it is used professionally, for teaching or in organizational contexts. The logbook of course applies mostly to the equipment that is of safety significance or directly forms part of the safety chain, harnesses, carabiners, rope brakes, ropes, slings, helmets. There are no formal requirements for the appearance and form of such a logbook, but for many situations a spreadsheet will probably be appropriate. RFID technology: Some companies are now ready with electronic identification of climbing gear, rfid. Then, using a mobile phone or a special reader, you can automatically register serial numbers etc. on ropes, carabiners etc.etc. It will especially be an advantage for organizations and companies with a lot of gear.

 

Information that should appear in your equipment's log:

• Log Number (running number in the log book)

• Category (rope, harness...)

•   Producer

• Type designation

• Serial number

• Production year (date)

• Date of first use (date of purchase)

• Date of last security check

• Remarks

Safety examination of climbing equipment

 

It is the user's statutory responsibility that all equipment is inspected each time before use. It is the employer's responsibility that the equipment is inspected by an approved and competent person and that an inspection report is issued at least once a year or more often if the manufacturer states this in the user manual. Be careful with inspection and control. Failure or damage to the climbing equipment can have fatal consequences. Lifespan of safety equipment for climbing It is difficult to specify a precise lifespan for climbing equipment that is used for very different purposes and by many different types of people, but if the manufacturer does not specify guidelines the following guidelines may apply: All "soft" equipment, i.e. equipment made of fabric, nylon, plastic, e.g. ropes, slings and harnesses have, as a rule of thumb, a maximum service life of 10 years from the date of production or 5 years from first use, unless the manufacturer specifies otherwise. All climbing gear made of metal, e.g. In principle, carabiners have no maximum service life. Having said this, it must be emphasized that a lot can happen to the climbing gear, which means that it must be discarded long before the end of its maximum life. New equipment: All newly acquired or repaired equipment must be thoroughly inspected. Daily inspection: 

All equipment must be inspected before use to ensure that minor defects and incipient wear and tear are detected in time.

 

The daily inspection includes the following:

• Harness:

  • The stitching is inspected together with the harness itself for breaks, threads, cracks and cuts.

  •   The buckle must work without pinching.

  • Pay particular attention to the seat belt attachment points, seams and the fastenings here wear out quickly!

  • Check for melted damage and traces of paint, chemicals and the like. 

• Climbing rope: 

  • Possibly. eye patches are inspected, no seams must be worn out.

  • The rope is examined for broken cords, yarns and threads.

  • The rope is passed smoothly through the hands to feel if there are any unevenness, thin places or knots hidden in the rope. note at the same time whether the rope has melted damage, crystallization and stiff areas. After some use, the climbing rope becomes shaggy and thicker to look at. This occurs when the outer threads wear out and unravel. It usually means nothing to the force.

  • Check whether the rope is marked at both ends with serial number or log book number, date of last inspection or production date and length in metres.

  • Check that the rope has no paint, oil or other chemical damage.

• Carabines:

  • It is checked that the locking devices can work freely and without blockages. Auto-lock carabiners must be able to close themselves.

  • The metal is examined for cracks and wear, there must be no cracks and the wear must not exceed 1 mm.

  • The carabiners must not be contaminated with paint or other chemicals.

  • Serial numbers and approvals must be visible. 

• Slings etc

• Examined in the same way as ropes and harnesses.

• Mechanical rope brakes and ascenders

• Examined in the same way as carabiners

• Check especially for play in closing mechanisms and wear in critical places in the brakes.

 

 

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